Kohe Shkhawr. Our expedition was composed of Giacomo Bornancini, Francesco Cappellari, Elena Guabello, Luca Proto, Gabriele Masiero, Fiorenza Testa, Dr. Donatella Noventa, Franco Paccagnella, Francesco Pavanini, Paolo Targhetta, Pierluigi Penon, Dr. Andrea Ponchia and me as leader. We hired small buses to Chitral and jeeps to the roadhead at Shagrom. With 40 porters we traveled three days up the Atrak Glacier to Base Camp at 4370 meters, which we reached on August 7. It lay below 6814-meter Kohe Nadir Shah. On August 10, we placed Camp I at 5000 meters on a rock ridge and then made a supply dump at 5600 meters. This was moved up and on August 16, ten members established Camp II at 6050 meters on a snow plateau near the foot of the northwest face of Kohe Shkhawr. Because of unsettled weather and food shortage, six climbers descended. On August 19, Bornancini, Cappellari, Paccagnella and I left Camp II in doubtful weather and reached the summit (7116 meters, 23,347 feet) at ten A.M. after eight hours of hard climbing. We were back in Base Camp on the 20th. Base Camp was evacuated on August 23.

Lucio De Franceschi, Club Alpino Italiano