P 5550 and Badshani, above Pasu Glacier. Jonathan Preston and I arrived at the Pasu Glacier on August 9, hoping for a month’s climbing on worthwhile alpine objectives below 6000 meters to make full use of Pakistan’s trekking regulations. One week into the expedition, we had to retreat to the valley since I was suffering from a severe bout of Acute Mountain Sickness. Preston returned to Base Camp soon after and soloed both of our main objectives. One was a 700-meter gully line on the south face of P 5550 (18,209 feet), just to the east of Darmyani (6090 meters) on the northern side of the glacier. The line climbed directly to the summit. Descent was via the east face. The second route was the beautiful 1400-meter-high north face of Badshani (5640 meters, 18,504 feet) on the south side of the glacier. The climb took two days on sustained ice with some mixed ground on the northwest ridge near the top (Alpine Grade TD, Scottish IV crux pitches). In the local Wakhi language, the peak is known as Fiyag. Both are probably first ascents.
Roy Ruddle, Alpine Climbing Group