Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk Attempt

Publication Year: 1993.

Baintha Brakk Attempt. Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) was attempted by Spanish Catalans Toni Casas, Joan Amils, Elias Coll and Jordi Sunyer. They had hoped to make the first ascent of the southeast face. They established Base Camp at 4400 meters on July 15 and Advance Base at 4700 meters at the base of the climb. After climbing a 350-meter-high icefall and a couloir of 400 meters, they reached a col at 5500 meters, where the very difficult rock and mixed climbing began. They climbed capsule-style, fixing five ropes before moving the lowest higher. They found rock of UIAA V+ average difficulty and ice of 80° to 85°. Their final attempt lasted for 13 days. During the end of this try, they were trapped at 6500 meters by bad weather for three days, during which time they were unable to cook or melt water. They gave up late in September.