American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Mango Brakk and Gama Sokha Lumbu

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Mango Brakk and Gama Sokha Lumbu. A lightweight British expedition composed of Paul Drew, Jim Hart and Dominic Leggett climbed in the mountains west of the lower Biafo Glacier. After a two-day approach from Askole, they placed Base Camp at Mango beside the glacier on July 31 and Advance Base 2000 feet higher on August 2. The next day all three set out to climb Mango Brakk (5355 meters, 17,570 feet), but only Hart continued the final bit to the summit, via either the exposed southeast ridge or on loose rock on the right side to the summit block—100 feet of easy and exposed slab and rib climbing. He declined to climb a 30-foot pile of perched blocks which made up the actual summit. After a long period of bad weather, Hart and Leggett reoccupied a bivouac site some 3000 feet above Advance Base at the foot of the southeast face of Gama Sokha Lumbu on August 12. Starting at one A.M. on August 13, the pair climbed to the top of the 50° snow slope by dawn and climbed along the ridge to the summit (6282 meters, 20,610 feet). [We are grateful to Paul Drew for this information.]

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