American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Summary of Trango Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Summary of Trango Ascents. Eight routes have been climbed on the Trango Nameless Tower (6239 meters, 20,470 feet). There have been 13 ascents to the summit. 1. June 8, 1976, Britons Anthoine, Boysen, Brown, Howells, southwest face (new). 2. June 15, 1987, Slovenes Cankar, Knez, Šrot, south- southeast face (new). 3. June 23, 1987, Swiss Piola, Schaffter, Frenchmen Fouquet, Delale, west buttress (new). Fouquet descended by paraglider. 4. July 13, 1988, Pole Kurtyka, Swiss Loretan, east face (new). 5. September 3, 1988, Germans Kraus, Lipinski, Schneider and Wilz, Kurtyka-Loretan route to snow band and then Slovene route. 6. September 5, 1988, Germans Albert, Arnold, Güllich, Leinauer, Münchenbach, Schwierisch, same route as 5; Albert, Güllich and Münchenbach climbed free. 7. August 9, 1989 Spaniards Gallego, Ros, Clavel, Seiquer, between west buttress and southwest face (new). 8. September 20, 1989, Germans Albert, Güllich, Kurtyka-Loretan start and then between the British and Slovene routes, “Eternal Flame Route” (new). (On September 18, Albert and Stiegler had climbed to within 300 meters of the summit on the new route and then climbed to the summit on the Slovene route.) 9. September 5, 1990, Frenchwoman Destivelle, Americans Breashears, Lowe, Slovene route. 10. September 9, 1990, Japanese Minamiura, Solo to right of Kurtyka-Loretan route (new). 11. September 15, 1990, Japanese Hoshino, Kimoto, British route to rescue Minamiura. 12. August 13, 1992, Korean-Americans Cho Kukkya, Cho Chonghwan, So Hoyoung, Chu Young, Slovene route. 13. August 23, 1992, American Wilford, Australian-American Child, east side of south face (new). A drawing of the Trango Nameless Tower with most of the routes appears on page 286 of AAJ, 1990.

There have been four ascents of the Main (central) Summit of the Great Trango Tower (6286 meters, 20,624 feet). 1. July 21, 1977, Americans Rowell, Schmitz, Hennek, Roskelley, Morrissey, from the Trango Glacier over the Pulpit (new). 2. August 19, 1984, Americans Selters, Woolums, from Trango Glacier to northwest ridge (new). 3. July 25, 1988, Italian Giordani, probably by northwest ridge 4. Several ascents between August 18 and 24, 1992, Australians Singleman, Feteris, Russian Moroz, New Zealander Gabites, northwest ridge.

There have been two complete ascents of the East Summit of the Great Trango Tower (6231 meters, 20,443 feet). The Norwegian Buttress was climbed with a big variant to the rim but not to the summit by Japanese in 1990 and by Spaniards in 1991. 1. August 5, 1984, Norwegians Doseth, Daehli, east face (new). 2. July 28, 1992, American Middendorf, Swiss Bongard, east face starting left of the Norwegian route and to its right above the snow ledge (new).

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