American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Broad Peak. Our team consisted of David and Diana Dailey, Scott McKee, Nels Niemi, Paul Stevenson and me as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on July 1. We had three camps at 18,600, 21,600 and 23,900 feet. The weather was good enough to climb to the lower camps most of the time, but there were only a few days for a summit bid. Snow conditions above 21,000 feet were always bad. We had contact with six other expeditions. On August 1, six climbers from four expeditions [see above], including Scott McKee and me, arrived at High Camp. The Mountain Gods favored us with a clear, windless day on August 2. We all summited at about five P.M. The combined effort of all to overcome the bad snow conditions was largely responsible for our success. After a long 18-hour day we stumbled into High Camp in the dark.

David Hambly

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