Asia, India—Eastern Karakoram, Mamostong Kangri

Publication Year: 1993.

Mamostong Kangri. This high peak continues to attract climbing teams. An Indian ladies’ team, led by Bachendri Pal, climbed the normal route from the Mamostong Glacier, crossing the 5885-meter Mamostong col and up the east ridge. The summit (7516 meters, 24,650 feet) was reached from Camp IV at 6700 meters by 15 climbers, all on August 15, in three groups. The first summit party consisting of Deepu Sharma, Kunga Bhutia, Anita Devi and Harsha Panwar was accompanied by instructor Rajeev Sharma and Sherpas Kushang and Nadre. They reached the top at one P.M. Sarla Negi, Radha Devi, Dickey Dolma, Bimla Negi and instructor Baldev Kanwar got to the summit at two P.M. Suman Kutiyal and Savita Martolia summited at 2:30 P.M. with porter Vijay Singh. A fourth attempt was thwarted by bad weather. The All-Women Pre- Everest Expedition had 17 members and a doctor. This is the second expedition in preparation for the 1993 Indo-Nepalese Women’s Expedition to Everest.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal