American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Mada III

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Manda III. Scot Andy Cunningham, Englishman Richard Mansfield and Irishmen Gary Murray and I arrived on the Bhrigupanth Glacier on September 8 but were confined to Base Camp for the next eleven days by very bad weather. When it eventually cleared, we climbed Manda III or P 6529 (21,420 feet) via the southeast flank and southwest ridge. Apart from the snout and icefall of the Bhrigupanth Glacier, which was difficult and dangerous, the ascent was technically easy, although long and arduous on account of poor conditions high on the mountain. There were three to four inches of breakable crust overlying up to a foot of powder snow or more. We took five full days to reach the top alpine-style on September 22 and to descend. We believe this was the first ascent. British climbers attempted the peak from the northwest face and north ridge in 1986 but failed because of deep snow at 6100 meters.

Ian Rea, Dalriada Climbing Club, Ireland

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