AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Yogeshwar

Yogeshwar. Our team was composed of Steve Adderley, Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and me. On October 2, the latter three made the second ascent of Yogeshwar (6678 meters, 21,910 feet) by a new route on the objectively dangerous south face. We thought we were making the first ascent, not knowing that Indians led by Ramakant Mahadik had climbed the mountain by the southeast ridge in June, 1991. We used the Swetvarn Glacier for our approach. We established Base Camp and Advance Base at 4800 and 5500 meters on September 12 and 20. On September 24, Adderley and Clamp made an attempt on the mountain via the west ridge, which they reached via the col between Yosheshwar and Chaturbhuj. They retreated at 6200 meters in the face of extremely unstable snow on the ridge. All four of us helped with the evacuation of an Indian climber from a Shri Kailas expedition. On September 28, Bass, Clamp and I reoccupied Advance Base. On the 29th, we bivouacked below the horribly loose east col, to which we had not climbed that day because of stonefall. We did get to the col (5950 meters) the next day, where we took a rest day. Just after midnight on October 2, we followed a series of gullies from the col onto the south face. Though threatened by séracs and potential avalanches, we crossed the south face to gain the southeast ridge at 6400 meters. We were on the summit at 11:30 A.M. By 5:30 we had descended the southeast ridge, crossed the Shyamvarn Glacier and reascended to our bivouac on the east col.

Simon Yearsley, England