Bhagirathi III. Micha Miller and I climbed Bhagirathi alpine-style by the Scottish route, using no fixed rope, in nine days with perfect weather. We spent two more days rappelling the route. We had originally hoped to do the Spanish route, but poor weather during the first three weeks of our stay left that route plastered with snow and with ice in the cracks. The Scottish route has a southwest exposure and is thus exposed to more sun. The route consisted of 30 pitches on beautiful granite (5.9, A2) before it joins a 45° to 60°, 1700-foot-high ice slope that led to the summit, which we reached on October 1. Aside from some rockfall and several poor bivouacs, the route is excellent and highly recommended for small, lightweight parties.

Mark Gunlogson, Tippy Turtle Alpine Group