American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, P 6940 ("Saraswati")

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

P 6940 (“Saraswati"). This peak lies on the Indo-Tibetan border, rising from the Saraswati valley near Badrinath. It is near Mana Pass and northwest of Kamet. The Indo-Japanese ladies’ expedition gave it the name of “Saraswati” after the river valley. They were led by Indian Subedar Santosh Yadev and Japanese Mrs. Reiko Terasawa. They approached from Badrinath along the Saraswati valley and turned northeast up the Balbala Glacier until they were at the top of the Schlagintweit Pass (6236 meters). (The Schlagintweits had crossed here to Tibet to approach Abi Gamin in 1855. No other party is believed to have reached the pass since.) The summit (6940 meters, 22,770 feet) was climbed from the pass along the southeast ridge. The summiters on August 18 were Santosh Yadev, Jyotika Negi, Mamta Thakur and Bhanita Timungpi, the last three Havidars of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. On August 19, Mrs. Terasawa, Takako Kato, Mayumi Shirasawa, Emiko Yamaguchi, Yoshie Kameda, Eri Kusuda of the Himalayan Association of Japan and liaison officer Aparna Pangtey reached the summit.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal

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