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Asia, Nepal, Sita Chuchura

Sita Chuchura. Our expedition, composed of Guy Hiron, Guy Mattioni, Jean-Louis Guillet, Claude Hameau, Philippe Lataud, Ang Tarke Sherpa and me as leader, made the second ascent of Sita Chuchura (6611 meters, 21,690 feet). After a ten-day approach, we got to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp at 4700 meters on October 1. We ascended to the east ridge from the south. We placed Camp I at the end of the glacier at 5500 meters on October 4 and Camp II at 6000 meters in the col below the South Dome on the 6th. On October 7, Camp II was established at 6100 meters on the snowy south spur after we had descended 250 meters and crossed the great south basin. On October 8, Hiron, Guillet and I climbed the south spur on 45° good snow to the 6350-meter shoulder. Because the east ridge was heavily corniced, we traversed on the opposite 50° to 60° slope for eight or ten rope-lengths to reach the summit at 1:45 P.M. We descended the same route.

Jean-Pierre Laurent, Club Alpin Français