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Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, South Face Attempt

Annapurna, South Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Slovenes Viktor Grošelj, Dr. Igor Tekavcic, Filip Bence, Vanja Furlan, Matjaž Jamnik, MihaKajzelj, Benjamin Ravnik, Slavko Rožic, Uros Rupar, Robert Supin, Iztok Tomazin, Janez Hrovat and me as leader and Croat Stipe Božic. We established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4050, 5050 and 5900 meters on the British route on September 29, 30 and October 4, according to plan. We moved along the ridge from October 6 to 10, avoiding a gully threatened by falling ice. We had instead to climb difficult snow-and-ice cauliflowers along the sharp ridge.

Heavy snow fell from the 11th to 14th, trapping Furlan and Supin in Camp II. It was during this storm that Pierre Beghin was killed. We then continued along the ridge and set up Camp III at 6600 meters on October 18. However, Grošelj, Božic, Jamnik and Ravnik gave up their attempt to climb higher because of the snow. On October 20 and 21, Tomazin and Bence forced their way to 6700 meters but decided that reaching the summit was out of the question. We gave up the British route and hoped to reach the long, but easier east ridge via the extreme right wing of the south face. Grošelj and Božic finally found a passage to the foot of the ice slope leading to the ridge, but snow conditions were bad and it began to snow again. We started to clear the route. Because so much snow had fallen up high, there was no chance for the east ridge either. Evacuation of Base Camp went forward in the next days.

Tone Škarja, Planinska zveza Slovenije