American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu, Post-Monsoon Spanish Expeditions

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Cho Oyu, Post-Monsoon Spanish Expeditions. Our expedition from Navarra was composed of Dr. José María Artetxe, Alfonso Ballano, Javier Bermejo, Juan Beroiz, Pili Ganuza (f), José Miguel Goñi, Agustín Pagola and me as leader. On September 2, we arrived at Base Camp below the Nangpa La at 5100 meters. We followed the normal route, traversing the west face and installing Camps I, II and III at 6300,6900 and 7300 meters on September 6, 7 and 18. The route is easy and only the séracs between Camps I and II require much attention.

The route is rather direct and crosses two rock bands by means of an evident couloir. On September 20, Artetxe and Ganuza reached the summit along with Japanese, Sherpas, Italians and Koreans. Not having used her sun glasses on the ascent and having suffered frostbite, Pili Ganuza had to be helped down the mountain and eventually helicoptered to Kathmandu. On September 29, Ball- ano, accompanied by Juan Jimeno from a Spanish expedition from Aragón, also reached the summit. Basques Iosu Bereciartúa, Amaia Arantzábal (f) and José Urbieta were also included in our permission. On September 17, Bereciartüa and Arantzábal, along with Joan Colet leader of a Catalán group, climbed to the top. Urbieta stopped on the slightly lower central summit. Amaia Arantzábal was also frostbitten and was evacuated with Pili Ganuza. Bereciartúa went from Cho Oyu to Everest and reached the summit of Everest on October 1 by the South Col route.

Gregorio Ariz, Club Anaitasuna, Spain

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