American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Everest

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Everest. Our international group consisted of Frenchmen Michel Vincent, leader, Jean-Pierre Maurus, Phillipe Arvis, Spanish Basque José Luis Sesma, Mexican Oscar Rodríguez, Canadian John Arnold, Sherpani Pasang Lhamu, and Americans David Powers and me. Arnold and I had originally been with another American team but switched when invited by Vincent. We arrived at Base Camp on September 5. With our Sherpas, we prepared the standard route with the six other expeditions. We put in the route between Camps II and III on the lower Lhotse Face. All nine members reached Camp IV on the South Col on September 24, but no one got above 8200 meters due to wind and stove malfunctions. A second attempt failed in even higher winds. At that time, all but Vincent, Arnold and I gave up. Finally, on October 7, Vincent made a solo ascent from Camp IV. On October 9,1 successfully climbed solo to the summit.

Scott C. Darsney

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.