Asia, Nepal, Everest

Publication Year: 1993.

Everest. Our members were Patxi Fernández, Mikel Reparaz, Juan Tomás, José Ramón Zubizarreta, Félix Iñurrategui, Juan María Eguillor, Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, Josu Bereciartua, Alberto Iñurrategui and I as leader. We climbed the standard South Col route. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV on August 23, September 1,6, 13 and 24 at 5350, 6000, 6500, 7300 and 7980 meters. Eguillor, Fernández, and the Iñurrategui brothers made the first postmonsoon ascent on September 25, the latter two without artificial oxygen. Ochoa de Olza had to turn back at 8500 meters because of frostbite. Eguillor went snow-blind and he and Fernández had to bivouac at 8700 meters on the descent, suffering frostbitten feet and hands. After they were evacuated from Base Camp by helicopter, Bereciartua climbed to the summit on October 1. On October 3, Tomás, Reparaz and I reached the top.

Pedro José Tous, Spain