American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Pre-Monsoon Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Ama Dablam, Post-Monsoon Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. As has been the case in past post-monsoon years, many expeditions head for Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet). In 1992, they completed the 100th to the 112th ascents. Except for where noted, the route of ascent was the southwest ridge. A British expedition led by Henry Todd was also accompanied by two Poles. The summit was reached by Pole Ryszard Pawlowski and Briton Jeff Lakes on October 24, by Pawlowski again, Alec McNab, Paul Roberts, Phil Clark, leader Todd and Pole Krzysztof Pankiewicz on November 1 and by Ian Cotgrove and Pawlowski for the third time on November 7. A French party of 11 French climbers and an Italian was led by Daniel Petraud and Jean-Jacques Rolland. Leader Petraud and Pierre Blanchard got to the top on October 24, Gilbert Lombard and Mlle Marie Sangnier on the 25th and Eric Bérard and Petraud again on the 27th. American Peter Athans, who led 14 Americans, accompanied the French to the summit on October 24, while Scott Cole, Jason Keith and Todd Burleson got there on November 7. Frenchman Jean-Noël Roche led another Frenchman, 4 Americans, 2 Belgians and 2 Italians. Roche with Americans Timothy Gill and Richard Southwell reached the summit on October 25, followed on October 28 by Roche again and Italians Pierluigi Avataneo and Mauro Gaido. Tragically Belgian Karine van Dooren died in a fall. Nine Spaniards were led by Lluis Giner. On October 26, leader Giner, Tomas Bravo, Sergi Martínez, Manuel de la Motta and Diego Fernández got to the top, followed on November 4 by Carlos Bravo and de la Matta again. Laurent Terray, leader of a four-man French expedition, climbed to the summit on November 12. The only successful group not to climb the normal route, 3 Australians and 2 Canadians led by Richard Howes, ascended the southeast ridge and descended the southwest ridge. On November 1, Australian Richard Howes, Matt Godbold and Ray Vran and Canadian Kobus Bardard reached the top. Three unsuccessful expeditions attempted the northeast ridge. They were 6 Britons, an American and a Norwegian led by Malcolm Duff (high point: 6170 meters on October 10), 2 Italians led by Renzo Turri (high point: 5350 meters on October 13) and 3 Swiss led by Beat Baumann (high point: 6000 meters on October 15).

Elizabeth Hawley

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