American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, Pre-Monsoon Ascents, Tragedy, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Ama Dablam, Pre-Monsoon Ascents, Tragedy, Attempt. All four premonsoon expeditions to Ama Dablam were on the normal route, the southwest ridge. A pair of Americans, David Nettle and James Quirk, reached the summit on April 10. Seven Spaniards were led by José Joaquín Goñi. On April 19, the leader, his brother Carlos Goñi, Mikel Iraizoz and Iñaki Villanueva reached the summit. Carlos Goñi then rappelled some sixty meters. He was followed by his brother, who plunged to his death when the rappel anchor pulled out. The other two spent the night on the summit and then descended the next morning without a rope. The body of the dead leader was sighted at the foot of the mountain but could not be reached. An expedition of nine Britons was led by Ross Ashe- Cregan. Paul Higgins and Kami Tenzing Sherpa completed the 99th ascent of the peak on May 4. A group of nine Englishmen, an American and a New Zealander led by Robin Beadle made an unsuccessful attempt, reaching 6550 meters on April 24.

Elizabeth Hawley

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