American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, American Ascents of 8000-Meter Peaks as of August 31, 1991

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

American Ascents of 8000-Meter Peaks as of August 31, 1992. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak): July 5, 1958 by Andrew Kauffman and Peter Schoening (First Ascent). Everest: May 1, 1963 by James Whittaker. Numerous subsequent US climbs, giving a total of 64 US individual ascents by 57 men and 3 women. (Peter Athans made two repetitions and David Breashears and Ed Viesturs, one.) Dhaulagiri: May 12, 1973 by Louis Reichardt and John Roskelley, followed by further US ascents in 1987 and 1990. Total: 7 individual ascents (6 men and 1 woman). K2: September 6, 1978 by James Wickwire and Louis Reichardt. Further US ascents the following day and in 1990 and 1992. Total: 8 individual ascents (men). Annapurna: October 15, 1978 by Vera Komarkova (US Citizen of Czech origin) and Irene Miller. Another US ascent in 1988 by Steve Boyer. Total: 3 individuals (2 women, 1 man). Makalu: May 15, 1980 by John Roskelley. Further US ascents in 1987 and 1990. Total: 6 individual ascents (5 men, 1 woman). Broad Peak: June 28, 1983 by Stephen Sustad. Another US ascent in 1992. Total: 2 individual ascents. Shisha Pangma: September 30, 1983 by Glenn Porzak, Chris Pizzo and Mike Browning. Further US ascents in 1984 and 1987. Total: 10 individual ascents. Cho Oyu: May 13, 1984 by Vera Komarkova. Further US ascents in 1986, 1987, 1989 and 1991. Total: 9 individual ascents (5 men and 3 women). Gasherbrum II: July 11, 1985 by Theo Mayer. Further 3 men in 1987. Total: 4 individual ascents. Nanga Parbat: July 13, 1985 by Slawomir Lobodzinski (US citizen of Polish origin). No further US ascents. Kangchenjunga: May 3, 1988 by Carlos Buhler. Further US ascents in 1989 and 1990. Total: 8 individual ascents (all male). Lhotse: May 13, 1990 by Wally Berg and Scott Fischer. No further US ascents. Total: 2 individual ascents. Manaslu: Remains unclimbed by US mountaineers.

The following nations (with dates of completion) have climbed all fourteen 8000ers: Germany (1983), Japan (1985), Switzerland (1986), Austria (1986), Italy (1986) and Poland (1987). The following (with the yet unclimbed peak in parentheses) have ascended thirteen 8000ers: France (Lhotse), Czechoslovakia (Shisha Pangma), United States (Manaslu), Spain (Lhotse) and South Korea (Annapurna). Then follow Slovenia (12), United Kingdom (11), Nepal (10), Russia (8).

Xavier Eguskitza, Pyrenaica, Bilbao, Spain

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