American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Torres del Paine, 1992-3

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Torres del Paine, 1992-3. Three young climbers from Bariloche were the core of an expedition that climbed all three of the Paine Towers and made new routes on two of them. They were Teodoro Plaza, 20 years old, and Ramiro Calvo and Diego Luro, both 18. On December 3 and 4, they climbed a new route on the west face of the Torre Norte del Paine. On December 8, they repeated the 1963 Italian (Bich) route on the Torre Sur. They were then joined on a new route on the east face of the Torre Central by South African Phillip Lloyd, American Peter Garber and Argentine Nicolás Benedetti. Starting on December 10, they fixed 850 meters of rope and climbed 31 pitches between the 1963 British route and the 1976 South African one. On January 19, 1993, Calvo, Plaza and Luro reached the summit and descended, leaving the fixed ropes in place. On January 17, Lloyd, Benedetti and, for a second time, Luro climbed to the summit and cleaned the route on the descent. On January 10, Benedetti completed a solo ascent of the normal route on the Torre Norte. [This report was received as we were going to press. In the next AAJ, we hope to have more details.—Editor.]

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche

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