American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Stanhardt and Traverse to Punta Herron, 1991

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Cerro Stanhardt and Traverse to Punta Herron, 1991. From October 26 to 29, 1991, Ermanno Salvaterra, Ferruccio Vidi and Adriano Cavallaro made an extraordinary traverse. Bivouacking before reaching the summit, they climbed Cerro Stanhardt via the Bridwell route and rappelled six rope-lengths south into the col betweeen Stanhardt and Punta Herron for a second bivouac. Over the next two days, they climbed Punta Herron by a new route (400 meters, V and VI), the northeast spur, which included three steep ice pitches and a summit mushroom, and then rappelled back 28 rope-lengths to the col and to the glacier. They filmed the entire climb, for which they received the UIAA Prize at the Trento Film Festival in April, 1992. Punta Herron is a foresummit on the north of Torre Egger. It was first climbed by Bruno De Donà and Giuliano Giongo in 1980 when they descended from Torre Egger.

Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano

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