American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, El Mocho and Punta Val Biois

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

El Mocho and Punta Val Biois. After their climbs of Yegua Helada and Juncal, Frenchmen François Marsigny, Patrick Gabarrou, Fred Vimal and Italian Giorgio Passino traveled to the Cerro Torre-Fitz Roy region. Despite the usual bad weather, Marsigny, Gabarrou and Passino managed to make the second ascent of the Grassi-Rossi-Pe route, Todo o Nada, on El Mocho. Shortly before they were to leave, they turned to a new route which had been called to their attention by the Swiss Kaspar Ochsner. This was above the Piedras Blanca Glacier on the east face of Punta Val Biois, the rock spire between Fitz Roy and Aguja Mermoz. A superb, very narrow ice gully of 70° to 90° rose for 450 meters nearly to the top of granite needle. On January 9, Marsigny, Gabarrou and Vimal climbed ten 50-meter-high pitches, six of which were extraordinarily steep. In places the gully was only a meter wide.

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