American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Bífida, East-Southeast Spur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Bífida, East-Southeast Spur. After our group of eleven was thwarted by bad weather from climbing Cerro Campana, we moved south to the Cerro Torre region. Eventually, only four of us, Casimiro Ferrari, Manuele Panzeri, Luciano Spadaccini and I were left. From the Maestri Camp, we moved up under the east- southeast spur of Bífida. During two days of miserable weather, we climbed 300 of the 750 meters toward the top, but soaked to the skin, we descended on January 5 to the Maestri Camp. Despite terrible weather, we tried to advance but were blocked by high winds and falling snow. Spadaccini had to leave. We other three finally set out on January 15. From our bivouac at the foot of the spur, in splendid weather on the 16th we quickly climbed the fixed ropes. We bivouacked 300 meters from the summit. The dawn of the 17th was excellent, but after climbing 200 meters, it clouded up from the west. However, we continued and got to the summit at ten P.M. with strong winds and falling snow. When we descended to the bivouac site, we found the tent destroyed by the wind. We had no choice but to continue the descent in the dark by the light of a single headlamp. We rate the climb as UIAA V to VI, A1 to A2.

Corrado Valsecchi, Club Alpino Italiano

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