American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Illampu and Condoriri, Cordillera Real, New Routes, 1986

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1993

Illampu and Condoriri, Cordillera Real, New Routes, 1986. Stanko Mihev, Robi Jamnik and Andrej Gradišnik climbed in the Cordillera Real in 1986. From July 1 to 3, 1986, they climbed a 1200-meter-high route on the northwest face of Illampu (6368 meters, 20,993 feet). The route follows the middle of the wall, left of the main couloir and was very steep except for the first 200 meters. (UIAA V on rock and steep ice.) On July 17, 1986, Mihev and Gradišnik climbed a 700-meter-high route on the south side of Condoriri (5648 meters, 18,531 feet). They started at the lake called both Chiar Krota or Lago Condoriri, reaching the plateau via a snow couloir on the rock buttress between the commonly followed couloir and the cascade icefall. They crossed the plateau and climbed to the col between Condoriri and its west wing (Ala Oeste) to ascend the southwest ridge to the summit of the Ala Oeste.

Irena Komprej, Planinska zveza Slovenije

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