American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Scottish Staunings Alper Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Scottish Staunings Alper Expedition. We completed a south-to-north traverse of the Staunings Alper. The journey was about 150 kilometers and followed the glacier systems on a route as close as possible to the east-west divide. We were Britons Mandy Wilson, Bob Neish, Paul Thompson and I as leader and French climbers Eric Flamand, Florence Germaine and Jean- François Haas. We flew from Akureyri, Iceland at the beginning of May and landed on skis on the sea ice at Storm Pynt, Nordvest Fjord. A food dump was made halfway along the route by the plane which landed on a tributary of the Roslin Gletscher. Hauling pulks, we took 18 days to make the northerly point of the traverse, Kap Petersen on Kong Oscars Fjord. The route, linking most of the major glaciers, crossed eight cols, two of which had not previously been crossed. One, formerly called False Col, connects the Bersaeckerbrae and the Skjoldungebrae. The other, which we named Alliance Col, connects the head of the Main Gletscher directly with the uppermost tributary of the Roslin Gletscher. We climbed three peaks: 1. The peak east of Alliance Col was climbed by its east ridge from the col by three members, climbing unroped. Two members ascended the south face on skis. A cairn was found on top. 2. Three of us made what we believe is the first ascent of the peak east of Crescent Col on skis from Gully Gletscher. It is the highest point on the ridge running south from Knoxtinde dividing the upper basins of the Gully and Schuchert Gletschers. 3. Four climbed Lambeth, south of Col Major, by two routes. From Kap Petersen, we skied 32 kilometers across sea ice to the airstrip at Mestersvig.

John Peden, Alpine Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.