Point 465 179 on McArthur, East Ridge. On May 18 and 19, Grant Stathem and I climbed a new route on the south buttress of Point 465 179 on the east ridge of McArthur. We had 5000 feet of very pleasant climbing on good granite with little objective danger (V, 5.9, A2, ice up to 70°). Despite appearances, the route was relatively easy with only 15 pitches needing belays. Careful route-finding up ramps, ice hoses and the odd boulder problem avoided most of the imposing steep walls. Combined with a straightforward descent down the east ridge to a glacial basin on the south, this is a highly recommended acclimatization route
before heading for Logan.
Bruce Kay, Canada