American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, Altitude, Ascents, Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

Mount Logan, Altitude, Ascents, Attempts. Using GPS equipment, a joint Royal Canadian Geographical Society, Geological Survey of Canada and Canadian Parks Service determined that Mount Logan is 5959 meters or 19,545 feet tall. The 1992 climbing season was characterized by generally poor weather during the spring. The arctic low pressure system brought high winds, cold and more than average precipitation during March, April and May. The rest of the climbing season experienced fairly normal weather. Twelve expeditions were on Logan’s King Trench route, half of which were successful. From May 10 to June 15, Mike Schmidt led the Geological Survey of Canada expedition, which worked on determining the height of Logan and placed ten members on the summit. The other members were Lisel Currie, Sue Gould, Leo Nadeau, Charlie Roots, Roger Laurilla, Karl Nagy, J.C. Lavergne, Pat Morrow, Lloyd Freese, Rick Staley, Kevin McLaughlin and Al Bjorn. Canadians led by Steve Smaridge climbed from May 17 to June 6. Two reached the west summit or Prospectors Peak and one made the main summit. Other Canadians led by Dwayne Congdon were on the mountain from May 21 to June 6, two also reaching Prospectors Peak and one the main summit. From May 24 to June 12, Americans John Halloran, Bill Hoyt, Rob Michaels, John Watson, Paul Fotinos and Dean Morrison completed the ascent. Americans Jack and Tom Bennett, Warren Grill, Jefferson and Jerrold Wagener, Dave Peterson, Greg Borges, Ihor Zalubniak and Mauro Conzatti reached the summit in June. Also in June, Alaskans Jim Sayler, Larry Hartig, Dolly Lefever, Tom Bringham and Judith Terpstra climbed to the top. Three expeditions were on the east ridge. Canadians led by Robert Tomich got to 5000 meters in May. An international group on June 1 placed Swedish leader Peter Fredman, Swedes Mårtin Källström, Nils Mörck and American Craig Hollinger onto the east summit. From May 17 to June 5, Canadians Hugh McReynolds, Fred Richie, Anthony Meier, Robin Janfield, Danny Denkowycz, Michael Friar, Michael Perkins, Joseph McCauley, Jim Brian, Randy Huber, J.A. Oakes, K. Deroche and Mike Vattheuer all got to the east summit. Italians Claudio Kerschbaumer, Mauro Girardi, Paolo Ribiani and Nello Fontanella attempted a variation to the west of Hummingbird Ridge from May 14 to 23. Two of the team managed to get to 4725 meters before getting stranded and requiring a helicopter rescue.

Andrew Lawrence, Kluane National Park Reserve

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