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North America, United States, Washington — Cascades, Katsuk Peak, North Face Couloir

Katsuk Peak, North Face Couloir. On May 3, my brothers Gordy and Carl and I climbed a 1200-foot couloir that splits the left side of this face. We made running belays by looping slings around horns, but some of the anchors were questionable. Snow flukes, rock protection or second ice tools would have been useful. At the top of the couloir, we swarmed up 60° powder snow and then squeezed through a narrow slot to pass a cornice. We scrambled along the south side of the west ridge to reach the summit, which offered great views of the North Cascades. (II, Class 3.)

Lowell Skoog