American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu Southwest Ridge Attempt, 1990

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Cho Oyu Southwest Ridge Attempt, 1990. An expedition of the Vysotnik Club of Leningrad was led by Aleksandr Glushkovski and consisted of Sergei Arsentiev, Nicolai Chorny, Dr. Valeri Karpenko, Aleksei Koren, Yuri Konovalov, Mikhail Mozhayev, Vladimir Moroz and Bulgarian Petko Totev. They had hoped to climb the still unclimbed southwest ridge of Cho Oyu, which had been unsuccessfully tried by three previous expeditions. Their club had lost 15 members in the tragic avalanche on Pik Lenina, including the initiator of this expedition, Leonid Troshchinenko. This caused them serious troubles and they were not able to establish Base Camp at 5050 meters until October 23. Despite the shortage of time, they surmounted subsummits of 6500, 7200 and 7400 meters and established four camps. Arsentiev, Chorny and Karpenko occupied Camp IV at 7450 meters. Chorny descended because of frostbitten toes, but the other two continued on November 14, 1990 to 7800 meters, where they bivouacked with a tent but no sleeping bags at the foot of the summit cone. Violent wind the next day forced them to retreat.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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