American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Everest Attempt. We were Alfredo Bonini, Roberto Linsker, Kenvy Chung Ng, Ramis Tetu, Paulo and Helena Coelho, Dr. Eduardo Vinhaes, Sherpas Ang Rita, Ang Nima, Phuba and I as leader. We attempted the East Rongbuk-North Col route. We arrived at Base Camp on October 3 and with the help of yaks set up Camps I, II and III at 5600, 6000 and 6500 meters. On October 18, Ang Rita and I fixed rope to 6750 meters on the way to the North Col. This was the only day without hurricane winds; it took us then ten days to fix the route to the North Col. On October 28, Bonini, Ang Rita, Ang Nima and I established Camp IV at 7050 meters on the col. On the 30th, Ang Rita and I tried to advance to set up Camp V but had to retreat after gaining only 50 vertical meters. On November 11, we began another attempt but on the 16th, I made a last solo try but had to retreat from below the North Col because of wind and cold. Our team was 55 days on the mountain and except for two or three days it was clear and sunny but windy and cold. There was no avalanche danger.

Thomaz A. Brandolin, Clube Alpino Paulista, Brazil

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