American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest Solo Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Everest Solo Attempt. We established Base Camp and Advance Base on April 1 and 7.1 had support from Margaret-Anne Seddon and Pasang Norbu and Kassang Tsering as far as Advance Base at 5500 meters on the Central Rongbuk Glacier. I ascended the glacier to 6100 meters at the base of the Japanese Couloir route. I then cut back to below the south face of Changtse, traversing below it into a basin at 6550 meters below the North Col. On April 11,1 placed Camp I at the base of the extreme eastern side of the north face at 6700 meters. From there I angled up and left into a couloir on the extreme left of the north face and well to the west of the North Col. I reached the north ridge at 7470 meters. I made my first attempt on May 1, reaching 8100 meters, where I bivouacked before descending the next day with frostbitten feet. This was the same time that an Austrian soloist east of the north ridge remained high and froze to death during the second night. A second attempt on May 11 got to 7800 meters, but I descended the same day because of high winds. The third attempt from a high camp at 8200 meters reached 8300 meters on May 20, but I had to turn back because of cold and frostbite.

Robert Anderson, Explorers Club

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