American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt, Ridge on Northern Edge of Kangshung Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Everest Attempt, Ridge on Northern Edge of Kangshung Face. Our members were leader Shinichi Hirano, Ryouten Hasegawa, Fumio Sakamoto, Sadaki Matumura, Nobumi Nakazawa, Tetuya Sano, Manabu Hirose, Kozo Takeguchi, Hiroshi Aota and I. After a 12-day caravan from Kharta with 370 Tibetan porters, we made Base Camp on April 14 at 5400 meters on the Kangshung Glacier. We started up the ridge that borders the Kangshung Face on the northern (right) edge on April 14. We set up a preliminary Camp I on P 5900. We were delayed in getting higher because the ice blocks were unstable and the route was very long. On April 30, we established the real Camp I on P 6100. Above Camp I, the route was even more dangerous because of ice blocks and rockfall. We climbed to 6400 meters on May 5, but gave up the expedition at that point.

Shin Saito, Meiji University Alpine Club

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