American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir, Norweigian Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

TirichMir, Norwegian Attempt. Forty-one years after their compatriot, Arne Naess, made the first ascent of Tirich Mir, Jon Gangdal, leader, Halfdan Egeberg, Torstein Skacke, Sven Gangdal, Erik Johannessen and Erik Hankø hoped to traverse both peaks: Tirich Mir East (7692 meters, 25,236 feet) and Tirich Mir Main (7706 meters, 25,283 feet). Base Camp and Camps I, II, III, IV and V were placed at 3300, 4300, 4800, 5200, 6000 and 6900 meters. Unfortunately, bad weather frustrated their hopes. On July 12, the Gangdal brothers set out towards the top of Tirich Mir East but fierce winds stopped them on the 7620-meter foresummit. They had no political or security problems and recommend this beautiful area to other climbers.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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