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Asia, Pakistan, Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Tragedy

Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Tragedy. Our nine-member expedition was led by my husband Tsuneo Hasegawa, whose expedition last year attempted unclimbed Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II; 7388 meters, 24,240 feet) but had to give up 300 meters from the summit. We again in 1991 attempted the south ridge. Base Camp was established at 3300 meters on August 26 by Kiyotaka Hoshino, Hiroshi Yamaguchi, Mitsuru Shiraishi, Narimitsu Kawasaki, Tsutomu Sugisaka and me. We placed Camp I at 4900 meters on the 26th. My husband Tsuneo Hasegawa, Osamu Tagaya, Kenji Ota and liaison officer Nazir Sabir arrived at Base Camp on September 12. Above Camp I, the route entered a wide gully. Despite frequent rockfall and avalanches, we established Camp II on the ridge on September 15 at 5450 meters. We followed the ridge to 5900 meters and climbed steep ice above to place Camp III at 6000 meters on October 3. On October 6, my husband and Hoshino climbed to the site of Camp IV at 6500 meters and returned to Camp I for a rest. On the 10th, they started back up for Camp II and were overwhelmed by an avalanche and swept from 5350 to 4000 meters to their deaths. The expedition was abandoned.

(Mrs.) Mas ami Hasegawa, U-Tan Club, Japan