American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Hunza Peak Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Ultar (Bojohagur Duanasir II) Attempt and Hunza Peak Ascent. Our expedition composed of Britons Victor Saunders, Crag Jones, Julian Freeman- Attwood and me and American Steve Sustad attempted to climb Ultar I (7388 meters, 24,240 feet) in July. Saunders and Sustad explored a remote valley difficult of access on the southeast side of Ultar. They decided against the southeast spur, finding that the conditions were not suitable. Instead they made an attempt slanting from left to right across the southeast face, heading for the upper section of the east ridge. After three days of climbing, a broken crampon and a broken ice axe forced a retreat. At the same time Jones and I attempted a line on the south ridge that the Japanese had tried in 1990. We climbed alpine-style and did not fix ropes or set up camps as the Japanese had. After five days, we reached a high point of 6500 meters on July 31 at the base of the summit buttress. Bad weather forced a retreat. Prior to this, Jones and I made the first ascent of Hunza Peak (6200 meters, 20,342 feet). We ascended from the Hasanabad Glacier to the col between Hunza Peak and Bublimoting and climbed the southwest ridge from there. We took three days for the climb. We also climbed Bublimoting from the col. This mountain had been climbed ten days earlier by a Swedish team.

Mick Fowler, Alpine Climbing Group

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