American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Bojohaghur Duanasir Attempr

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Bojohaghur Duanasir Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Austrian Günther Steinmair, American Dr. Michael Henry and Germans Hans Feith and me. Bojohaghur Duanasir (7329 meters, 24,045 feet) had first been climbed by Japanese by its west face and southwest ridge in 1984 and was attempted by British who got to 6800 meters by the south face and southwest ridge also in 1984. We traveled by bus from Gilgit to Karimabad. On June 12 we got to Base Camp on the Ultar Glacier at 4000 meters after a two-day approach with 30 porters. We had trouble in paying the porters as they demanded too much; we finally resolved this. The south face is very dangerous objectively with séracs and ice avalanches. We followed the British route on the left of the face. On June 20, we placed Camp I at 5000 meters after fixing rope on ice up to 90° and UIAA rock of VI- where there was rockfall and falling ice. As I rappelled, a rock the size of a football struck me in the head and left forearm, which put me out of action. My friends continued to the crest of the southwest ridge at 6000 meters, where they placed Camp II. Continuous bad weather and objective dangers compelled them to give up the attempt in mid July. This mountain has no safe route.

Edi Birnbacher, Deutscher Alpenverein

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