American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Momhil Sar Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Momhil Sar Attempt. Our expedition had as members Josep Cla, Joan Córdoba, Joaqim Cufí, Lluis Julià, Dr. Carlos de Mendoza, Francesc Xavier Miquel, Luis Olivas, Joan Ribas, Jordi Tosas and me as leader. We had hoped to climb Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet) by its east ridge. We established Base Camp at 4650 meters on the moraine of the Gharesa (Trivor) Glacier on August 5 after an approach of four days. We installed Camps I, Hand III at 5150, 5650 and 6350 meters. We hoped to continue alpine-style with three climbers supported by four others. However, two suffered from the altitude and had to be helped down. We placed Camp IV at 6520 meters. On August 18, bad weather, deep snow and avalanche danger forced us to give up at 6700 meters.

Salvador Boix, Centre de Càlul Girona, Spain

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.