American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Trivor Ascent and Momhil Sar Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Trivor Ascent and Momhil Sar Attempt. Masahiko Miyoshi, Morikatsu Hashimoto, Hidetoshi Nakama, Masahiro Izawa, Atsushi Endo, Hiroshi Kobayashi, Nabuaki Tuchizawa and I as leader reached Base Camp at 4300 meters on the Momhil Glacier on July 27. We continued up the broken glacier to Advance Base at 4880 meters on a rocky hill. We then climbed the east ridge of Momhil Sar. We were on rotten rock until just below Camp I at 5480 meters, which we pitched on August 3. The route then changes to a 35° corniced snow ridge, which we followed to a snow shoulder, placing Camp II at 6050 meters on August 12. We continued up to the shoulder of Momhil Sar on gradually steepening, icy slopes. We pitched Camp III on August 15 at 6730 meters, where the Trivor and Momhil Sar ridges join. We descended toward Trivor to a col, over P 6880 and to another col, where we placed Camp IV. There were technical difficulties beyond Camp IV. Camp V was established at 6880 meters on August 29. Endo and I left camp at 3:30 A.M. the next morning and reached the summit of Trivor (7728 meters, 25,325 feet) at 1:50 P.M. despite unstable weather, completing the second ascent. [The first ascent had been made by Briton Wilfred Noyce and American Jack Sadler in 1960.] On September 5, Miyoshi, Hashimoto, Izawa, Endo, Tuchizawa and I climbed along the steep ridge toward Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet), but we were stopped by a steep ice gully at 7000 meters.

Toshifumi Onuki, Waseda University Alpine Club, Japan

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