American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Momhil Sar Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Momhil Sar Attempt. Our expedition, which attempted to climb Momhil Sar (7342 meters, 24,088 feet) by the northeast ridge, was composed of Michael Wärthl, leader, Volker Kron, Uli Schneider, Heiner Dehn, Dr. Alexandra Rothkopf, and me. We left Passu with 36 porters on June 29 and got to Base Camp at 4000 meters on July 2. We established Camps I and II at 4800 and 5600 meters on July 4 and 9. The route to Camp I was mostly easy glacier-walking. On the way to Camp II we fixed 150 meters of rope on easy mixed ice-and-rock climbing. On July 17, we reached a highpoint of 6200 meters. The attempt was unsuccessful because of bad weather conditions the whole time and avalanche danger.

Tom Dauer, Deutscher Alpenverein

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