Diran Attempt. Pole Aleksander Lwow, Americans Randy Rhodes, Ken Nolan, Steve Truitt, Clay McGann and I as leader attempted the standard west-ridge route on Diran. Extreme avalanche danger on the north face which led to the ridge prevented our climbing it. We had only three weeks for the ascent and ran out of time. We established Camp I at 5800 meters on the north face. We then climbed to 5950 meters but snow conditions prevented further progress. The face was a nightmare of avalanche conditions because of its northern exposure, huge size and ice séracs despite an angle of only 40°.