Snow Lake Peaks and Hispar Sar. New Zealanders Dave Bamford, Matt Comeskey, John Cocks, John Wild and I with liaison officer Major Arif Khan spent July and August climbing in the Lukpe Lawo (Snow Lake) region during a Biafo-Hispar traverse. We placed Base Camp at 4780 meters at the foot of the rock spur on the northern side of the junction of the Sim Gang Glacier with Lukpe Lawo. The voracious bears did visit us but proved more of an amusement than an inconvenience. This does, however, appear to be their furthest recorded incursion up the Biafo. From a camp at the northwestern head of the Sim Gang, an unnamed peak of about 5950 meters was climbed and another of about 6000 meters turned us back because of deep loose snow. We returned to Base Camp via a col leading to the most easterly feeder of Lukpe Lawo. We crossed the Khurdopin Pass and from a camp in the upper névé of the East Khurdopin Glacier all of us climbed via its southeast spur the highest and most elegant peak. It is about 6500 meters high and the height of 6858 meters on the new SFAR map is incorrect. On the return to Base Camp, a peak of about 5990 meters immedi ately south of Tahu Rutum was climbed from the Tahu Rutum Glacier. We visited a number of side glaciers and minor peaks and climbed Workman Peak (c. 5885 meters) by the west ridge. Skis were used to access all peaks. We then crossed into the upper Hispar and failed in two attempts to climb virgin Hispar Sar (c. 6400 meters). The first, via the north face from the Khani Basa Glacier, was turned back at 5850 meters by slab avalanche conditions. The second, from the glacier immediately down valley from the Khani Basa, was frustrated by a dangerous icefall. We continued down the Hispar to partake of the pleasures of Hunza.
John Nankervis, New Zealand Alpine Club