American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Satopanth

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Satopanth. The members of our expedition were Santiago Arribas Pérez, leader, Dr. César Alfaro, Santiago Gómez, Francisco Soría, Alfonso Juez, Estaban López, Julio Fernández, Eduardo Fernández, Avelino Mora, Jesús Acaso, Pedro Exposito, Manuel Serrano and I. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II and III on May 5,7,8 and 14 at 4337,4800, 5100 and 5950 meters, the latter in the col at the foot of the northeast ridge on the normal route. We had two periods of good weather with a total of nine days. It snowed and blew in the afternoons. The technical difficulties were between 6100 and 6400 meters. We fixed 400 meters of rope, using 17 snow pickets, 3 ice screws and 30 carabiners. Deep snow over ice complicated the climbing. On May 17, Juez, Exposito, Eduardo Fernandez and Mora completed the first Spanish ascent of the peak (7075 meters, 23,212 feet). On the summit day, it snowed and blew.

Antonio Angel Ciprés, Grupo Militar de Alta Montana, Jaca, Spain

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