American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Abi Gamin Ascent and Kamet Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Abi Gamin Ascent and Kamet Attempt. Our team consisted of Miss Maharookh Gowadia, Miss Medha Bapat, Dr. Suneel Vartak, Jitendra Hande, Prasad Mhatre, Rajesh Gadgil and me as leader. We established Base Camp on Vasudhava Tal at 15,400 feet on May 28. Camps I, II and III were placed on the East Kamet Glacier at 16,100, 17,200 and 18,200 feet on June 3, 5 and 10. We climbed a steep gully some 1500 feet to place Camp IV in a basin at 20,100 feet on June 14. Then a 1500-foot rock face, sometimes plastered with snow, and a 350-foot ice face led to Camp V, pitched at 21,600 feet on June 20. Camp VI was placed on Meade’s Col at 23,100 feet on June 23. On June 22, Dr. Vartak and Hande climbed to the summit of Abi Gamin. Gadgil’s attempt on Kamet on June 24 failed due to the sickness of a high-altitude porter who was with him. I was put out of action by a falling stone at Camp IV.

Jayant Dofe, India

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