American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Nanda Kot Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Nanda Kot Attempt. We were Ajoy Mondal, Nishi Kanta Sen, Rakhal Ghosh, Naresh Rai, Amitabha Bhattacharya, Gopal Chakraborty, Dr. Amit Bhowmick and I as leader. After arriving at Munsiary on September 8, we had difficulty recruiting porters because the Indo-Ukrainian expedition to Nanda Devi East had engaged nearly all available local porters. We took five days to get through Martoli to Base Camp at 4150 meters. It was three hours from there to Advance Base, which we established on September 17. Despite wanting to pitch Camp I in the Kuchela-Nanda Kot col, we were first stopped by crevasses. We placed Camp I on the nearer side of the Kuchela Glacier at 5050 meters on the 19th. Rope was fixed on the rock buttress above Camp I. Altitude problems and incompetence of many high-altitude porters from Uttarkashi left Ghosh, high-altitude porter Gylzen and me alone to carry out the campaign above. Skirting an icefall on a spur coming down from the col, we pitched Camp II at 5700 meters on the spur and on September 24 placed Camp III at 6000 meters just below the col. The northeast ridge rises from the col to the summit. We hoped to make a summit bid from there, but a heavy snowfall began on September 25 and we gave up the attempt.

Amar Biswas, Parvat Abhiyatri Sangha, India

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