American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tripura Hiunchuli (Hanging Glacier Peak IV), Kanjiroba Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Tripura Hiunchuli IV (Hanging Glacier Peak IV), Kanjiroba Himal. After flying to Baglung, an international group led by Doug Scott began a long approach on September 30. They trekked via Beni, the Myagdi Khola, Darbanh, Dhorpatan, the Ghustang Khola, Tarakot on the Barbung Khola, Ringmo, over the Kagmara La, the Garpung Khola to the Jagdula Khola East, arriving at their Base Camp on October 25. They established Advance Base at 5200 meters below the start of the rocky ridge. On October 27, Britons Doug Scott, Nigel Porter and John Cullen and Indian Sharu Prabhu (f) made an abortive attempt on Tripura Hiunchuli IV (6294 meters, 20,650 feet), the southernmost of the Hanging Glacier Peaks, climbing from the west. On October 27, Scott, Porter and Prabhu completed the first ascent of the mountain. They had loose rock for 500 meters and then good ice and snow. They made an unplanned bivouac at 5500 meters on the descent. They returned to Jumla for a flight to Kathmandu on November 4. (Doug Scott has kindly provided this information.)

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