Dhaulagiri, West Face. Our team from Kazakhstan sent ten members to the summit of Dhaulagiri by a difficult new route on the west face. They were climbing leader Yervand Ilinsky, Yuri Moiseev, Andrei Tselishchev, Anatoli Bukreev, Vladimir Sugiva, Renat Khaibullin, Valeri Khrishchaty, Artur Shegai, Alexandr Savin, Vladimir Prisyazhny, Zaurbek Mizambekov, Viktor Dedi and Dr. Valentin Makarov. They started up a rock spur of variable steepness. A rock wall of 75° between 5500 and 6000 meters was the most difficult part of the route. Difficulty up to UIAA VI+ and poor weather complicated efforts. Between 6000 and 6800 meters there was an ice slope followed by mixed ice and rock of 55°. Rope was fixed up to 7350 meters. Base Camp and Camps I, II, III, IV, V and VI were established at 3600, 4670, 5200, 5500, 6000, 6400 and 7400 on April 2, 6, 19, 15, 26, May 6 and 9. On May 10, Moiseev, Suviga, Bukreev, Tselishchev and Khaibullin reached the summit. On May 13, Khrishchaty, Shegai, Savin, Prisyazhny and Mizambekov climbed to the top. The eleventh member of the assault team, Dedi, broke a bone in his hand while moving a rock to set up Camp I and so could not climb higher.
Kazbek Valiev, Kazakhstan