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Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin

Annapurna Dakshin, Southeast Ridge Attempt. On October 14, only four days out from Kathmandu, Susan Diprima, Jim Jennings, John Lapkass, Geoff Radford, Dave Sullivan and I as leader reached Base Camp at 13,500 feet in the Annapurna Sanctuary. The next day we established Advance Base at 15,000 feet, partially up the Annapurna South Glacier. From October 16 to 19, we worked at finding a safe route through the icefall and into a snowy basin below the col on the southeast ridge of Annapurna Dakshin (South). Unfortunately, the icefall was either impassable or severely threatened by hanging séracs off Hiunchuli and the Fang. On the 21st, we called the climb off and spent until November 4 on one-to three-day climbs in the sanctuary. We burned and buried all garbage and carried out cans and bottles.

Andrew Lapkass, Alpine Guides International