Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, West Face Solo Attempt

Publication Year: 1992.

Annapurna, West Face Solo Attempt. From October 28 to 31, I climbed a new route on the west face of Annapurna solo alpine-style but did not ascend to the summit. I got to Base Camp at 4300 meters on October 19 and bivouacked at the foot of the west face at 5150 meters on October 27.1 followed the 1985 Messner route to 6000 meters and after that climbed a new route to the left of his. After a bivouac at 6200 meters on the upper plateau, I climbed 70° ice and experienced some rockfall. I bivouacked again at 6900 meters after reaching a snow ridge. On the 30th, I worked left onto a safer part of the face. I climbed to 7300 meters, where I had to halt for two hours because of the wind. I then continued up snow-covered rock to 7800 meters where I bivouacked in what was left of my tent. On October 31, I got to 7900 meters near to the normal route but was forced back by the wind to bivouac again at 7800 meters. On November 1, I traversed the north face and descended the normal route and bivouacked at the site of Camp I. I was back in Base Camp on November 2. This had been packed up by my Base-Camp staff, who thought I had not survived, but I managed to walk down to a village on two frost-bitten toes.

Slavc Sveticic, Planinska zveza Slovenije