American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, Solo Autumn Ascent, 1990

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Annapurna, Solo Autumn Ascent, 1990.1 approached Annapurna in May of 1989 but did not make a real attempt to climb the mountain because of bad weather. In the autumn of 1990,1 returned. I flew to Jomosom and continued on with seven porters to the Annapurna Base Camp at 5200 meters on the north side of the mountain, which I reached on October 5. Two Sherpas helped me to establish Camp I at 5600 meters. From there on, I climbed solo, moving up a few hundred meters during the comparative lulls early each morning. I was plagued by wind, stomach problems and high-altitude sickness, but persisted. Finally on October 25, 1990,1 got to the summit, having taken four hours to complete the last 100 meters. It took me another five days to descend to Base Camp, where my Sherpas awaited me. [Gazzola did not get permission to climb the mountain and so this was an illegal ascent. There is also actually a considerable amount of doubt in Italy that Gazzola accomplished this ascent.—Editor.]

Giancarlo Gazzola, Club Alpino Italiano

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