American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Bhirikuti First (?) and Second (?) Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Bhrikuti, First (?) and Second (?) Ascents. There had been some question as to whether Bhrikuti (6364 meters, 20,879 feet) in northern Mustang had been successfully climbed before a joint British-Nepalese expedition, led by Elaine Brook and Lhakpa Sherpa, set out for it this autumn. Japanese claimed the first success in 1982 by three separate summit parties, but the leader of an unsuccessful French team four years later said that he had seen their photos and was certain that they had not reached the highest summit. In any case, it was not the British members who went to the top via the southeast ridge on October 22 but three Sherpas, Lhakpa, Ang Zangbu and Ang Kitar. The Britons, who were feeling the effects of altitude remained in Base Camp except for the doctor, who went to Advance Base. On November 3, a French expedition led by Bertrand Doligez also followed the southeast ridge to the summit. Those who got to the top were Doligez, Jean-Pierre Bourgeois, Patrick Blanfune, Jean-Marc Pillot, Frédéric Simond and Sherpas Ang Tendi and Mingma Tenzing.

Elizabeth Hawley

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